The expert-performance assessment is critical for skill evaluation and its potential to be used as a guiding framework for understanding and enhancing a specific skill set, expertise and learning.
This video is an overlay of two separate climbers performing the same move, at the wall angle:
The approach involves: A) identifying a representative movement of expertise in the area of your climbing interest; B) have an expert (and possibly novice, but optimally someone else who has a close skill set) climber perform the skill, recording the mechanisms that enable the expert's superior performance; and C) tracing the acquisition of those skills and mechanisms. The evaluation enables the assessment of climbers' performance to be measured, identification of their respective strengths and weaknesses, and refinement of training activities to promote effective learning and the development of future generations of expert climbing.