Biomechanics refers to the techno-tactical approach to movement. Technique and tactics often married together in sport science because the two approaches are so inter-related. Biomechanics can offer climbers important information on movement patterns, kinetic deficits (strength, power, endurance), and the relevant exercises to improve movement. The information is usually gathered through two forms of analysis: quantitative and qualitative analysis. Qualitative analysis is collecting information using observation of your movement, evaluating it with respect to the problem or crux movement pattern, and making some level of diagnosis to determine if the movement pattern can be improved. Quantitative analysis is the collection of climbing specific information using numerical evaluations to gather Time-Force, Force-Motion, Range of Motion, and Joint Angle interacting with different Segments. An example of this would be to evaluate a common Campus Board move, in 1-5-9 fashion, and determine the angle of the upper pulling arm at the point of lower pushing hand release.

*Another Disclaimer!?!?!?! As with the Clinical Sciences, I am a "Sport Performance Coach", not a Certified Nutritionist (CN) or a Registered Dietitian (RD). That means that I am NOT qualified to diagnose any eating disorders, metabolic deficiencies/maladies; in addition, I am NOT certified to prescribe a meal plan for anyone. I am qualified to discuss my opinions on the role of nutrition related to climbing, basic nutritional requirements, training and recovery from training, a balanced training diet, nutritional needs for athletes, athletic training and glycogen storage among other nutritional factors.*

Yogi Berra's mathematical observation that "90 percent of the game is half-mental" is timeless. It reminds me of when I raced motocross as a young grommet and people told me that success was 90 percent mental. My forearms were usually on fire, so I tried to make the connection between the two aspects, but, didn't understand what they meant. It wouldn't be uncommon for me to crash my brains out several times in one moto...for years! In hindsight, a little upper-body strength, increased practice time during the week and learning technique helped so much more than "trying really, really, really hard". From my experience, many people approach climbing from a purely physical angle - grip/hand strength, or mental "trying harder than everyone else" angle. This section deals with mental functions of climbing, for example; motivation, perception, attention, fear are but a few factors related to climbing performance.

*Please read the disclaimer toward the bottom. It is NOT my intention to treat or diagnose anyone's injury. I am a "Sport Performance Coach", not a clinician educated in Medical Sciences. The purpose of this section is to cover and discuss climbing specific injuries.* The reason for having this section is obvious; as athletes we are subject to extrinsic injuries (falling on a rock, rock falling on you, or falling in general), intrinsic injuries (musculo-tendinous tears, bone breaks) and over-use injuries from one session or accumulated over time. People involved in fitness are not necessarily athletes; when they feel discomfort, it is easy to continue their regime by switching activities. Athletes, on the other hand, gain skill and adaptations to their sport by REPETITION. I have yet to meet a serious athlete who hasn't had some level of musculo-skeletal discomfort related to their sport. *While highly qualified and certified within our disciplines we at Athletik Spesifik are not trained in clinical study nor certified as clinicians. Legally and for the welfare of all we cannot diagnose your injury. We suggest your personal General Practice Doctor or a specialist fully qualified to diagnose your injury and properly recover.*